The Local Pour - Merlo Coffee

We sat down with David Holt, Chief Operating Officer at Merlo Coffee, to talk about legacy, community and what makes Brisbane’s café scene so unique.

What’s Merlo’s story and heritage?

Merlo’s roots trace back to 1960, when Dean’s father, Gino, opened Café Milano in Brisbane’s Queen Street Mall. He later expanded into Milano’s, a silver-service restaurant that quickly became the place to visit. From world leaders to everyday locals, everyone was drawn to Gino’s hospitality and the quality he delivered.

“Gino was a character, always hospitable, and the quality of the food and service was second to none,” David says. Those same values of quality and connection laid the foundation for Merlo Coffee today.

What role does the Bowen Hills site play in Merlo’s journey?

Bowen Hills once served as Merlo’s second head office before the business moved to Eagle Farm. The relocation gave space to transform Bowen Hills into a flagship café.

In July, it also became home to the Milano Bakehouse. “It’s a full circle back to Milano’s heritage in tribute to his dad,” David explains, describing the Bakehouse as a way to bring artisan baked goods into Merlo stores with the same focus on quality that defines their brews.

What does the Brisbane café community mean to Merlo?

For Merlo, the Brisbane café scene is more than just a market, it’s home. Over the past 32 years, the city has grown, with the Olympics on the horizon. “I like to joke we’re world famous in Brisbane,” David says. Supporting local cafés through that growth is vital. “It’s immensely important to us to support our café partners and help them into the next growth stage.”

Merlo has been around for over 30 years. What values have they carried through?

“Tradition, food, and quality… these are all values of Merlo’s history,” David says. Over time, those foundations have been joined by people values, trust and respect, both with customers and within the business. “Quality… is at the heart of everything, and we really try and embed that and thread that through the fabric.”

You’ve recently launched “Grounds for Discussion.” What’s it all about?

Supporting cafés has always been part of Merlo’s DNA, but the new Grounds for Discussion forum takes it further. Every three months, Merlo brings café partners together for open roundtables, a space to share challenges, swap advice, and workshop solutions. “We can have roundtable, open discussions… and really try and bring the community together,” David explains.

How has coffee culture evolved since Merlo began roasting?

In 32 years, consumer tastes have shifted dramatically from cappuccinos and flat whites in the ’90s, to today’s single origins, small batches, cold drinks, and the rise of alternative milks.

“When we started roasting, the competitive landscape was much more reduced,” David says. “Now, there's been a rapid increase in roasters. It's created a really vibrant, brand-led industry. Competition is a good thing.”

Despite changes, Merlo’s roasting process has stayed true. “We only use A grade beans and we also slow roast, which brings out a richer, fuller body with bolder flavours.”

Freshness is a big part of Merlo’s philosophy. What does “Fresh as Best” mean to Merlo?

For Merlo, freshness is non-negotiable. “Coffee starts to deteriorate the moment air, light, and heat start to hit,” David says. That’s why beans are roasted daily and shipped straight away, reaching customers within one to two days of roast. “Fresh as Best gives them maximum opportunity to use it as fresh as can be.”

What makes a great café experience for you personally?

For David, the answer is simple. Exceptional coffee, good food, and atmosphere are expected but it’s the people that matter most. “The most important thing is the human element,” he explains. “A smile, eye contact, a short chat across the counter… that’s what really makes a memorable experience."

Do you have a favourite moment that reflects Merlo’s values?

One memory stands out during the Brisbane floods. A long-time wholesale customer in Milton lost his father, and the Merlo crew stepped in to run the café so he could attend the funeral. “That really resonates,” David reflects. “That’s what Merlo is all about.”

What is next for Merlo?

With the Milano Bakehouse underway, Merlo plans to keep expanding its bakery footprint while also refurbishing existing cafés, opening new ones, and strengthening wholesale partnerships. “We’re looking to cement those key partnerships and be a leader of the hospitality industry for our partners,” David says.

And finally, why The Alternative Dairy Co.?

“We partner with Alternative because they’re the best. And it’s what the customers want. We look for partnerships, not just suppliers, and we certainly feel like we’re a partnership.”

Merlo Coffee and The Alternative Dairy Co. share a belief in quality, consistency and community. It is this alignment that makes every pour feel like part of something bigger.